🌿 Escaping Tokyo's Heat: A Hidden Mountain Onsen in Yamanashi | Akaishi Onsen Ryokan

Tired of Tokyo’s relentless summer heat? Just a couple of hours away lies a secret retreat so tranquil, it feels like you’ve slipped into another era. Nestled deep in the Akaishi Mountains, also known as the Minami-Arupusu (Southern Alps), sits Akaishi Onsen Ryokan—a rare gem where nature, nostalgia, and craftsmanship come together in perfect harmony.

🎥 Prefer video? Watch the full Akaishi Onsen experience on my YouTube channel — Onsen with Hansen.

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🏞 A Ryokan Built by Hand (and Heart)

What sets Akaishi Onsen apart isn’t just its location—though that alone is worth the journey. This ryokan was built, quite literally, by the hands of its 80+ year-old owner. From the structure to the hand-carved rotenburo (outdoor bath), the spirit of dedication is visible in every beam and stone.

The moment you arrive, you’re greeted by okami-san, who embodies Japan’s omotenashi—that warm, genuine hospitality that makes you feel instantly at home.

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♨️ The Rotenburo: Healing Waters in the Forest

Akaishi Onsen’s name comes from the iron-rich red stones that tint both its landscape and its onsen. The outdoor bath is stained with these mineral deposits, creating a warm, earthy aesthetic that feels straight out of a Ghibli dream. It’s also classified as a 含鉄泉 (iron spring)—great for circulation and deep muscle relaxation.

This isn’t just a bath. It’s shinrinyoku—forest bathing for the soul.

The largest rotenburo operates as a konyoku (mixed-gender bath) most of the day, with limited women-only hours. For more privacy, there’s also a smaller women-only outdoor bath.

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🛏 Our Stay: Simple Comfort and Soulful Stories

Our room had a classic tatami layout with a square chabudai—like a kotatsu without the heater. After checking in, we took a short forest trail right behind the ryokan to a hidden waterfall. Our dog absolutely loved it—this spot is perfect for travelers with pets and a love for mini-adventures.

Dinner and breakfast were hearty inaka ryōri—home-style mountain meals made with care, if not finesse. If I visit again, I’d definitely try their BBQ plan.

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🧘‍♂️ The Magic of Stillness

Akaishi Onsen isn’t for everyone. It’s remote, rustic, and—yes—home to a few bugs. But it’s also quiet, sincere, and spiritually rich. During our stay, the owner shared a story about a raccoon dog that once visited the property, and how he crafts new woodwork each year to keep the space evolving.

To top it off, we ended our visit with a short hike to a hidden waterfall behind the ryokan and to Himuro Shrine, home to a 1,200-year-old sugi cedar—the very wood used in the ryokan’s bathhouse. The connection between shrine and spring felt beautifully symbolic.

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🎵 An Enka Farewell

As we drove back to Tokyo, we listened to a CD of the owner’s own enka song—a heartfelt ballad about the onsen he spent his life creating. I can’t imagine a better sendoff.

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🚗 Getting There

• Location: Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan

• Access: ~2.5 hours by car from Tokyo (via Chūō Expressway)

• Public Transit: Reachable via JR Minobu Line + taxi, but car is highly recommended

• Note: Narrow mountain roads—drive carefully, especially in winter

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📺 Watch the Full Experience

For a closer look at the rotenburo, the hidden waterfall trail, and our full ryokan stay, watch the full video here:

👉 Watch on YouTube: Tokyo Too Hot? Secret Mountain Onsen 5°C Cooler | Akaishi Ryokan

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🔖 Final Thoughts

Akaishi Onsen Ryokan isn’t a luxury stay—it’s a soulful one. Perfect for seasoned Japan travelers, onsen lovers, or anyone craving reconnection with nature. Whether you're escaping the heat or just want to experience the heartbeat of old Japan, this is a place that stays with you.

Let me know in the comments:
Would you stay here? Or do you prefer a more polished ryokan experience?

About Anette
Anette came to Japan as an exchange student in 2010, met the love of her life and got stuck. From her base in Tokyo she writes about her experiences as a full-time worker in Tokyo and about her travels in Japan and abroad. She's a free-spirited adventurer who enjoys both the great outdoors and her urban lifestyle.