Are you looking for a unique ryokan experience that takes you beyond the usual tourist routes in Japan? In this post, I’ll take you on a three-day adventure across three prefectures, where I stayed at three incredible heritage ryokans—each with its own charm, history, and relaxing onsen.
From the Edo-period elegance of Kurashiki, to the modernized cultural heritage ryokan in Kotohira, and the tranquil Meiji-era onsen retreat in Hyogo, this journey is a perfect way to experience traditional Japan while escaping the crowds.
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Day 1: Ryori Ryokan Tsurugata – Kurashiki, Okayama
A Step Back in Time
My ryokan adventure began in Kurashiki, Okayama, a city known for its beautifully preserved Bikan Historical Quarter. Nestled in the heart of this Edo-period district is Ryori Ryokan Tsurugata (料理旅館 鶴形)—one of the oldest buildings in the area, originally built in 1744.
This ryokan was once an oil merchant’s establishment, giving it a deep historical connection to Kurashiki’s commercial past. Today, it has been beautifully maintained, allowing guests to stay in an authentic Edo-period building.
Getting There
- 🚄 From Osaka: Take the Shinkansen to Okayama Station, then transfer to a local line for Kurashiki Station. From there, it’s just a 10-minute walk to the ryokan.
What Makes This Ryokan Special?
✅ Only 11 rooms for a quiet, intimate stay
✅ Beautiful tatami rooms with views of the inner garden
✅ Located right in the Bikan Historical Quarter for easy sightseeing
Must-Do: Explore Kurashiki by Rickshaw
One of the best ways to experience Kurashiki’s historical charm is by taking a rickshaw tour. It’s a relaxing way to admire the white-walled storehouses, traditional wooden buildings, and picturesque canals.
Dinner: A Kaiseki Experience in Bento Form
As the name "Ryori Ryokan" suggests, Tsurugata takes pride in its cuisine. Dinner is served in beautiful bento-style boxes, featuring fresh Setouchi seafood and seasonal vegetables. Their signature tai chazuke (sea bream rice with tea) was the highlight of the meal!
Day 2: Shikishimakan – Kotohira Onsen, Kagawa
A Cultural Heritage Ryokan with Modern Comforts
The second stop on my ryokan-hopping journey took me to Kotohira Onsen in Kagawa Prefecture, home to the famous Kotohira Shrine (金刀比羅宮). I stayed at Shikishimakan (御宿 敷島館), a ryokan with a 400-year history, designated as a cultural heritage site and reopened in 2019 with modern upgrades.
Getting There
- 🚄 From Kurashiki: Take a train to JR Kotohira Station. The ryokan is just a 5-minute walk from the station, conveniently located along the shrine’s approach.
What Makes This Ryokan Special?
✅ Originally built during the Edo period, now beautifully restored
✅ Located on the main path to Kotohira Shrine
✅ Perfect for first-time ryokan guests, as all rooms are Western-style
Private Baths & Relaxation
Instead of a large open-air bath, Shikishimakan offers four private onsen baths, each with a distinct character. These baths are first-come, first-served, making it a great option for couples or families looking for privacy.
Dinner: A Customizable Feast
Unlike most ryokans, where kaiseki meals follow a fixed menu, Shikishimakan offers a variety of small dishes alongside the main course. This makes for an exciting and diverse dining experience, especially for those wanting to try different flavors.
A Great Choice for Ryokan Beginners
Since Shikishimakan offers Western-style rooms, you won’t experience traditional Nakai-san (room attendant) service, making it a comfortable choice for those new to ryokans.
Day 3: Shioda Onsen Kamiyama Ryokan – Hyogo
A Hidden Hot Spring Retreat in the Forest
For the final night of my ryokan adventure, I traveled to Hyogo Prefecture to stay at Shioda Onsen Kamiyama Ryokan (塩田温泉 上山旅館). Founded in 1874, this ryokan is the original hot spring source of Shioda Onsen, known for its healing mineral waters.
Getting There
- 🚄 From Kotohira: Take the train to Himeji Station, then a bus to Shioda. The ryokan provides a shuttle service from the bus stop, which takes just 3 minutes.
What Makes This Ryokan Special?
✅ Founded in 1874, rich in history
✅ Set in a quiet forest, perfect for relaxation
✅ Offers a variety of beautiful baths, including a hinoki-wood bath, a garden bath, and private open-air baths
The Ultimate Onsen Experience
The waters of Shioda Onsen are rich in sodium bicarbonate and chloride, believed to aid digestion and soothe nerve pain. The private outdoor baths were my favorite—surrounded by nature, offering a true escape from the world.
Dinner: The Flavors of Hyogo
Shioda Onsen’s kaiseki meal features Tajima beef (但馬牛) and fresh seafood from Harima-nada. The quality of ingredients and delicate presentation made it an unforgettable dining experience.
A Serene End to the Journey
After the crowds of Kotohira Shrine, arriving at Shioda’s peaceful forest setting was the perfect contrast. The calm atmosphere, soothing hot springs, and rich history of the ryokan made it an ideal way to end the trip.
Final Thoughts: Exploring Western Japan Beyond the Crowds
This three-day, three-prefecture journey was an incredible way to experience authentic Japan away from the usual tourist spots. Whether you’re interested in history, onsen, or regional cuisine, each of these ryokans offers a one-of-a-kind experience.
📢 Have you ever stayed at a ryokan? Let me know in the comments—which of these three would you love to visit first?
温泉が大好きなハンセンでした。またね！
About Anette
Anette came to Japan as an exchange student in 2010, met the love of her life and got stuck. From her base in Tokyo she writes about her experiences as a full-time worker in Tokyo and about her travels in Japan and abroad. She's a free-spirited adventurer who enjoys both the great outdoors and her urban lifestyle.
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