You know that quiet moment when dusk settles in, and the air turns a little thicker with memory? In Japan, that moment often happens at a ryokan.

During one of my most recent journeys, I decided to follow not just a trail on the map—but a trail of wonder. A Ghibli trail, to be exact. And if you’re a fan of Spirited Away (aren’t we all?), this one might just make you book your next trip.

I visited three inns that are widely believed to have inspired Spirited Away’s magical bathhouse. Each one felt like a different kind of portal—one into craftsmanship, one into artistry, and one into something… a little otherworldly.

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Kanaguya: Wood, Lanterns, and the Whisper of Spirits

The first stop was Kanaguya Ryokan in Shibu Onsen, tucked away in the mountains of Nagano. The moment I stepped through the wooden entrance, I felt like I had landed in the 1930s—and possibly also in another dimension.

The ryokan’s crown jewel is the Seigetsuro, a four-story wooden masterpiece built entirely without nails. Every beam and balustrade was carved by hand, and at night, with the lanterns glowing and casting shadows down the creaky corridors, it was hard not to feel like soot sprites might be around the next corner.

Kanaguya doesn’t just look magical—it’s powered by it. The inn draws from nine different natural hot spring sources, which the current fourth-generation owner blends daily with a kind of alchemical care that’s almost poetic. I tried each of the indoor baths during my stay, and each felt slightly different—softer, lighter, deeper, like the water had mood swings.

And if you’re the type who enjoys a bit of ritual, the Shibu Onsen nine-bath pilgrimage is a must. I shuffled through town in my yukata and wooden sandals, little wooden key in hand, unlocking bathhouse doors one by one like I was collecting blessings.

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Meguro Gajoen: The Dragon Palace Hiding in Tokyo

From quiet Nagano to the heart of Tokyo—it felt like I jumped timelines. Meguro Gajoen is not your average inn. It’s more like someone gave Japan’s best artisans a blank cheque and said, “Go wild.”

Originally opened in 1931, this place was once dubbed the Dragon Palace of the Showa Era. Walking through the Hyakudan Kaidan, the “100-Step Staircase,” I felt like I was in a fantasy film. Each of the connected banquet rooms is themed, and dripping with traditional arts: gold-leaf ceilings, mother-of-pearl inlays, hand-carved screens. It’s not subtle, but then again, neither is the bathhouse in Spirited Away.

Meguro Gajoen isn’t a ryokan in the traditional sense—you don’t sleep on tatami floors or wear a yukata here—but it is a preservation of cultural elegance, and walking through it made me feel oddly proud. Proud that spaces like this still exist in the chaos of a city like Tokyo.

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Sekizenkan: Where Time Stretches and the Air Hums

Then there was Sekizenkan, in Shima Onsen. And this place… well. This place made me slow down without meaning to.

Founded back in 1691, Sekizenkan is one of Japan’s oldest ryokans, and stepping onto the red-lacquered bridge that connects the main building to the mountain annex felt like walking into a scene from a dream. At dusk, when the lanterns begin to glow and the water runs dark beneath the arch, it’s easy to understand why people say this was the bridge that inspired the one to the spirit world.

Their bathhouse, Genroku no Yu, is a marvel. Arched windows, tiled floors, and that soft, timeless echo of water dripping onto stone. I sat there longer than planned, letting my thoughts unravel.

There’s something about Sekizenkan that doesn’t try to impress—it just is. It has the kind of quiet dignity that makes you whisper without realizing it. And coming from a culture where silence can sometimes feel like space between thoughts, this place taught me that in Japan, silence is the thought.

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A Glimpse Into Another Layer of Japan

As someone from the Nordics, I'm used to silence. But Japan's silence is different—more alive, more patient. These ryokans aren’t just accommodations. They’re portals. Each one showed me something deeper about Japan’s relationship with nature, time, and imagination.

If you’re looking to step beyond the Tokyo-Kyoto route and experience the kind of Japan that inspired the world’s most beloved animated film, these three inns belong on your map.

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🎥 Want to See the Magic Come to Life?

I documented this journey in a video you can watch here:

👉 Watch: 3 Real-Life Ryokans That Inspired Spirited Away

Whether you're planning your next onsen stay, building a Ghibli travel itinerary, or simply dreaming of red bridges and lantern light, I hope it inspires you to go deeper into Japan.

Until next time—let's relax, rejuvenate, and rediscover Japan one ryokan at a time.

As the old saying goes; monkey see, monkey do! In Jigokudani - literarily Hell's Valley - the monkeys have learned to enjoy bathing in the hot spring, and if you visit the valley you can see both young and elder monkeys monkeying around or just soaking in the hot water. Although these monkeys belong to a very common Japanese species called macaque, the monkeys living in the snowy areas of the country are more often referred to just as that - “snow monkeys” (スノーモンキー). You can find macaque monkeys all over Japan, but it is only the snow monkeys in Nagano's Jigokudani that are known to take hot spring-baths, a peculiar sight that attracts visitors from all over the world.

Japan has a number of famous places for people who enjoy winter sports like ski and snowboarding, and with its steep mountains and beautiful powder snow, it is a popular ski destination from people from near and far. One of the places well-known for people who enjoy winter activities is Shigakōgen in Nagano. With 21 ski resorts it is one of Japan's largest ski areas, and during the 1998 Nagano Olympics, a number of the games were hosted here.

Old Karuizawa Main Street (旧軽井沢)

Karuizawa is an area famous for its many high-end resorts and luxurious summer houses owned by the country's many billionaires and celebrities. In the summer it is a popular destination for people who want to get away from the hot and humid city life in Tokyo, and in the winter the area attracts visitors from people interested in winter sports.

Old Karuizawa Main Street (旧軽井沢)

Pictures of a man with a bee beard

Totoro!

Kristian trying on some gigantic crocs

You can also visit a small bakery called the France Bakery where John Lennon apparently used to stop by frequently. There is a picture of him on the wall inside the bakery taken during one of his visits.

Some of the dresses you can try on for your own back-in-time photo

But of course, Old Karuizawa is also packed with more traditional Japanese places to visit. You can shake off most of the tourists and shoppers once you get further down the road, and see some nice old buildings at the same time. At the end of the road you'll find yourself almost at the brink of the forest. So if you get tired of the swarm of shoppers at the beginning of the street you might want to head over to this part of the street instead.

Typical Japanese 雰囲気

Getting closer to the mountain

Although Japan might be most known for its major metropolitan areas like Tokyo there are also mountainous areas such as the so-called Japanese Alps on the main island Honshū. I've already visited the Japanese alps once this year, as Yuma and I climbed Mt. Chōgatake (蝶ヶ岳) in July. This time our goal was the summit of Mt. Yake (/Yakedake 焼岳), which actually is an active volcano and listed as one of Japan's 100 most famous mountains (百名山). We left Tokyo early Saturday morning with the bus from Shinjuku, and reached Nagano's Matsumoto city at 9 am. This time Yuma's father also joined us for the hike from Matsumoto, and together we took a taxi to the trail entrance and began the hike (although I would recommend taking the train from Matsumoto rather than a taxi. You can't go all the way to Kamikochi by train, but taking the taxi form Matsumoto takes about an hour and is thus sliiightly expensive..).

The Nishiitoya situated right by the river, and surrounded by mountains.

Our Japanese style bedroom

.. And with a typical tokonoma (床の間) alcove

Both dinner and breakfast was included in the stay, and in the evening we had a delicious washoku (和食) Japanese style dinner.

An overview of the food we has for dinner Yummy!

The changing room

The common room, which offered a wide selection of books about outdoor activities

Our favorite was still the cafe, where they offered free drinks for staying guests and a nice view of the outside river.

After having hiked the nearby Mt. Chogatake it was refreshing to spend a day relaxing in the beautiful Kamikōchi. I already look forward to the next time my boyfriend gets some days off work. This time we're going to visit my hometown in Bergen, Norway.