Adventures of Anette: Tsubame Sakura Matsuri
Showing posts with label Tsubame Sakura Matsuri. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tsubame Sakura Matsuri. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 11, 2018

The Oiran Cherry Blossom Festival Report: Tsubame Sakura Festival - Oiran Dochu (つばめ桜祭り)

6:56:00 PM

The cherry blossom period is one of the best time of the years to visit Japan. Not only can you enjoy the marvelous sight of the thousands of flowers in bloom, but the temperature is also perfect (Japanese summer can be extremely hot and humid). If you want to combine the sakura season with a traditional Japanese festival featuring an Oiran Dochu parade you even have the chance to do this after the last sakura in Tokyo has fallen.

Monday, May 2, 2016

Behind the Scene of the Tsubame Sakura Matsuri - The Oiran Dochu (つばめ桜まつりおいらん道中)

10:49:00 AM
Above: The oiran procession of the Tsubame Sakura Festival where I participated as an Oiran

On the 17th of April, it was finally time for the Tsubame Sakura Matsuri (つばめ桜まつり), a festival that is held annually in April in the southern part of Niigata (新潟). 
Earlier this year I had applied for a role as one of 3 oiran in what is thought of as the highlight of the festival, the Oiran Dochu (おいらん道中) procession, and as the first foreigner in the 74-year long history of the festival, I was selected for the role. As preparations for the festival we had been practicing to walk on 15-cm high geta-shoes in a style called sotohachi-monji (外八文字) and taken part in various PR-events for the festival, and were all extremely excited for the big day. 

Above: Me dressed up as the sakura taiyu Oiran

A video from the procession

In the morning we gathered at the Tsubame Bunsui Welfare Center where it was time to get dressed for the event. With more than 70 people participating in the procession in different roles you can imagine all the work that is necessary to prepare for the parade.
It took a couple of hours before we finally were ready to leave the building.

In advance of the festival I had been a bit nervous about the weight of the outfit; with a 20-kilo heavy kimono, a 10-kilo heavy wig and 15 cm high geta shows I had been slightly worried about my ability to finish the whole 2-hour long parade. However, it turned out that the weight of the outfit itself was no problem, it was the wig (katsura - 桂) that ended up being the biggest challenge for me. At one of the practices we had had two professional katsura-makers from Tokyo measuring our heads and shaping the inner metal frame of the katsura to fit our heads perfectly, but despite the detailed construction, the constant pressure on the head from the katsura was still harder to handle than expected. This experience certainly made me a lot more impressed with the oiran who had to wear these sorts of outfits on a regular basis! To me, the katsura felt more like a torture device than something to wear for beauty.. Haha..
Usually the festival is carried out in an area of Bunsui famous for its beautiful cherry trees, but unfortunately, we were unlucky with the weather, and the procession had to be carried out inside the local gymnasium. After arriving at the gymnasium we got our final pep talk before entering the area where the audience was waiting. People had been lining up to get tickets since early morning, and the gymnasium was packed with visitors. 
The procession itself wasn't that long, we walked around in a circle inside the gymnasium using both regular walk and sotohachi-monji. All in all we had 4 performances to make sure that all the visitors could see the procession. Below are some more photos from the Oiran Dochu:
shamizen-performers onstage
Although it was a bit disappointing that we weren't able to walk outside underneath the cherry trees it was still a fantastic day and without a doubt one of the highlights of my stay in Japan. Personally, I enjoyed just being a part of the preparations for the festival too, for instance, to be able to see part of the process of making the katsura or the huge transformation people go through when they get totally painted with the white makeup. As a foreigner, I felt very blessed to be a part of all this, as it is definitely a once-in-a-lifetime experience. If I get the chance I would love to visit Bunsui next year and hopefully see the Oiran Dochu procession outside with the blooming cherry trees in the backdrop.

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Saturday, April 16, 2016

The Tsubame Sakura Matsuri: Cherry Blossom PR & Last Minute Preparations

12:31:00 AM

It is only 2 days left until the Tsubame Sakura Matsuri festival (つばめ桜まつり) in Bunsui, Niigata, and we have had a last round of practice for the big day. The 17th is the day of the Oiran Dochu where I'll be one of four girls getting dressed up as an Oiran - a courtesan lady from the Edo period. As a part of the preparations for the festival we went to the Bunsui station where we took part in greeting travellers who had come to the Bunsui station to see the yozakura (夜桜) evening cherry blossoms.
The Bunsui Station is known for its beautiful sakura, most of which were planted more than a hundred years ago, and the row of cherry trees by the platform have come to symbolize the station itself. 

In addition to the event at the station this day we also got our last chance to practice the particular walking style called Soto-Hachi Monji (外八文字) before the festival. Local and national press joined us for the practice, which was sent on the news both on the direct and on the following day (all photos in this blogposts have been taken from TV broadcasts). 
With only two days left to the festival it is hard not to feel slightly nervous, as there will be people coming from near and far to watch the procession. There is also a certain chance that we'll have rain on the 17th, in which case they might be forced to hold the festival indoors. Fingers crossed! 
If the weather is bad on Sunday the procession will be held indoors.

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Sunday, April 3, 2016

Geisha vs. Oiran: The Characteristics of the Japanese Courtesans

10:48:00 AM
The Tsubame Sakura festival in Bunsui. 
From the Tsubame Tourism Assoication
Japan is a country of some very distinct traditions, and one thing that might come to mind when thinking about this far-east country is the graceful Japanese courtesan ladies. That is especially the case for the Japanese Geisha, as these courtesans were made famous through the movie “Memoirs of a Geisha” from 2005. There are however another type of Japanese courtesan ladies that hold at least as much history as the Geisha, namely the Oiran (花魁). Some of you might be wondering what the difference is between an Oiran and a Geisha, and although they might appear similar at a first glance there are a few important things that sets them apart.

History

Although the Geisha are more well-known in Western countries the role and position of the two courtesans used to be very different. The Oiran tradition flourished back in the early Edo period (1600-1868), a time where they were seen as entertainers and superstars. The Geisha on the other hand were held in the background and dressed restraint in order for them to not be in competition with the Oiran, and the Oiran profession is thus in a sense the forerunner of the Geisha. The Oiran were educated women who were masters of a wide range of traditional arts, and highly respected for their profession. Back in the days a night with an Oiran would cost as much as one year’s salary for a commoner, but even if you could afford it the Oiran was still free to reject a customer if he was deemed unworthy. 

The Oiran profession has however died out, and unlike Geishas there are no professional working Oiran left in Japan today. The Oiran tradition does however live on even today through Oiran Dochu (おいらん道中) parades. During their primetime the Oiran ladies used to do daily parades around their district, which in a sense functioned as a sort of advertisement for their services. Oiran Dochu parades are still held throughout the country mostly as parts of local festivals, and the most famous among these are Asakusa’s Edo Yoshiwara Oiran Dochu (江戸吉原おいらん道中) and the Tsubame Sakura Festival (つばめ桜祭り)’s Oiran Dochu in Niigata.

So what is it that physically distinguishes an Oiran from a Geisha?

The Kimono

From my Oiran costplay experience
The Geisha is dressed modestly, and her kimono is not supposed to be too flashy. The Oiran is on the other hand supposed to attract customers, and her kimono is made to get her the attention. She is extravagantly dressed, typically in a kimono with patterns in gold and with strong vivid colours. The quality of the kimonos is also different. While the Geisha traditionally wore kimonos of cheaper materials the Oiran wear a kimono made of the purest silk. And then comes all the layers! The Tayuu (太夫) is the highest-ranked Oiran, and in addition to the kimono she also wears a special obi called uchikake which is tied at the front. Her full attire can weigh about 20 kilos, so as you can imagine she has to be physically strong as well.

The Hair

From DeepJapan.org
The part about Geisha ladies dressing modestly is also the case for her hairstyle; She traditionally would wear a simple wig without any accessories. The Oiran on the other hand has her hair filled with ornamental hairpins (kanzashi) and other golden coloured accessories. Her katsura wig also has a special bow shape that helps distinguish her from the Geisha. Her katsura weigh around 10 kilos, which brings the total weight of the Oiran outfit to around 30 kilos.


The Geta (Shoes)

While both Geisha and Oiran ladies walk around in the distinct Japanese wooden geta shoes there is a big difference in how tall the shoes are. The geta worn by a Geisha do not differ that much from regular shoes in terms of hight, but the geta shoes of the Oiran are about 15 cm tall. This is to ensure that the Oiran ladies are the tallest in the Oiran Dochu parades and to make them more visible to the audience. The Oiran also walk in a particular style knows as Soto-Hachi-Monji (外八文字 - "Outside 8 sign"), and her walking style is considered a type of art in itself.
(I've written about this topic in the post Tsubame Sakura Matsuri Oiran Dochu: The Soto-Hachimonji (外八文字) - How to Walk like an Oiran ).


The Feet

Back in the Edo period it was not common for ladies to show off their bare skin in pubic. While the Geisha ladies wore white socks known as tabi to cover up, the Oiran women didn’t wear anything except their geta. This both showed their endurance during the cold winter, and at the same time made men go crazy just by sight of the bare skin. But even here the Oiran ladies didn’t go completely without cover; instead their bare skin was painted white, which also was the case for any part of their bodies that was not covered in cloth.

Video about Oiran from ONLY in JAPAN

This post is a part of my series about the Tsubame Sakura Festival where I will participate in the Oiran Dochu as the Sakura Tayuu (桜太夫) Oiran on April 17th 2016. All blogpost about this topic can be found in the links below.

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Tuesday, March 15, 2016

Tsubame Sakura Matsuri Oiran Dochu: The Soto-Hachimonji (外八文字) - How to Walk like an Oiran

10:55:00 PM

The devil is in the detail, and that can particularily be said in the case of Japanese traditional arts. For the Edo-period courtesan women called Oiran everything was planned down to the tiniest detail to make sure that they performed their role to perfection, and they even had their own walking style known as the Soto-hachimonji (外八文字). Soto-hachimonji can be translated into something like "outside 8-shape", and simply put this technique involves drawing the character 8 with your feet as you walk. Add the 15-cm high geta shoes and the 30-kilo costume and you might start to get an idea about how tough this must have been back in the days.

All posts about the Tsubame Sakura Matsuri 

Monday, February 29, 2016

Elected as Oiran for the Tsubame Sakura Festival! 第74回 分水おいらん道中のおいらん役に!

10:31:00 PM

みんなさん、一つご報告あります。昨日新潟県燕市で行われましたある二次審査に参加させて頂きました。そこで平成28年4月17日のつばめ桜祭り「第74回 分水おいらん道中」で桜太夫のおいらん役として選ばせて頂きました。外国人のおいらん役は歴代初だそうで大変光栄に思います。みんなさん、当日ご都合宜しければ是非見に来てください♪(*^^)

Yesterday I had the honor of getting elected for a position as an Oiran at the Tsubame Sakura Festival in Niigata scheduled to take place on the 17th of April. Among 64 applicants we were three girls who ended up with a position as Oiran in the parade, and in the 74 year long history of the festival it is the first time that a foreigner has been chosen for this role. This sure will be a great chance to experience a Japanese festival and see the Sakura at the same time!! For those of you who are in the vicinity it would be fantastic if you have the chance to come see the parade on April 17th!
分水おいらん道中のおいらん役に選ばれた初の外国人は・・・大使館の元研修生でした! 4月17日の開催です(新潟県燕市)http://bit.ly/1QUQ1t8
Posted by Royal Norwegian Embassy in Tokyo on Thursday, March 3, 2016

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About Me

Adventures ofAnette


A modern day shield-maiden who loves to explore the unbeaten paths of the world. From her base in Tokyo, Anette takes on both rural and urban challenges, and goes by the motto "No challenge too big, no adventure too small"!
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