Looking for an authentic onsen ryokan experience close to Tokyo, but without the tourist crowds of Hakone?

Let me introduce you to Fujiya Ryokan (富士屋旅館) — a historic hot spring inn in Yugawara, Kanagawa, that’s quietly become one of my all-time favorite getaways.

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🏯 A Ryokan Steeped in History

Established in 1876, Fujiya Ryokan is one of Yugawara’s oldest traditional inns. The current main building, constructed in 1923, is a beautifully preserved Taisho-era wooden structure and is officially registered as a Tangible Cultural Property of Japan. Staying here feels like stepping back in time — but with all the comforts of a modern stay.

I visited with my mother and grandmother in late summer, and it turned out to be the perfect multi-generational escape. From the timeless architecture to the soft rustle of yukata in the halls, everything about Fujiya Ryokan speaks to the kind of understated luxury that Japan does so well.

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♨️ Onsen for Mind and Body

Fujiya’s onsen baths are gender-separated and indoor, but don’t let that fool you — the atmosphere is just as soothing as any open-air rotenburo. With natural hot spring water drawn from Yugawara’s renowned sources, the baths offer a skin-softening experience in a calming, wood-framed space that feels timeless.

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🍽️ Kaiseki with a Twist: Unagi Specialties

One of Fujiya Ryokan’s biggest surprises was the food. Dinner is served at their restaurant Hyōrokutei (瓢六亭) and features beautifully curated kaiseki cuisine made from seasonal ingredients.

Their unagi (eel), however, is what sets them apart. Served Kansai-style—grilled without steaming—it arrives crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, and full of smoky, savory depth. It’s presented in a traditional donabe (clay pot) over rice, making the experience even more memorable.

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🌸 Perfect for a Peaceful Stay — Without the Hakone Prices

Yugawara often flies under the radar, sitting just before the more famous onsen resort of Hakone. But locals in the know often choose Yugawara instead. Why?

• It’s less crowded,

• Often more affordable, and

• Home to hidden ryokan gems like Fujiya.

Whether you’re a solo traveler, a couple on a quiet retreat, or a family spanning generations like mine, this ryokan offers something rare: a chance to slow down and soak in Japan’s natural and cultural beauty without distraction.

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▶️ Watch the Full Video

🎥 I captured our entire experience at Fujiya Ryokan on video!
▶️ Watch here: Why Locals Choose This Hidden Onsen Over Hakone | Fujiya Ryokan Yugawara

Get a closer look at the historic rooms, serene onsen baths, beautifully presented meals, and the surrounding charm of underrated Yugawara.

One of the most popular seasons to visit Japan is in spring when the cherry blossoms color the Japanese landscape with its pink cape. The timing of the sakura season changes depending on the area (sakura forecast for 2018 here) and the type of sakura. If you find yourself in the Kanto area you can see the Japanese national flower already in January in Atami and in February the flowers bloom in the southern part of Izu, Kawazu.
As a part of a small day trip to the Shonan area (south of Tokyo) I and some friends stopped by the Oide River (小出川) where they were having a small sakura festival.
This is an event most recommended to those who have other plans in the vicinity. There are some entertainment scheduled during the festival period, but if you visit on a day without anything scheduled there honestly isn't that much to see besides the flowers. We got our nice cherry blossom pictures and headed over to Enoshima for some more in-depth sightseeing. If you find yourself in the Tokyo area early March and looking for opportunities to see the sakura it might be a good option as a part of a trip to Shonan.

Thank you for reading! Please feel free to leave any comments or questions below
- Anette

• All blog posts about Cherry Blossoms
• All blog posts from Kanagawa
• Kanto:
• Mt. Fuji & Sakura: Maruyama Kouen (丸山公園) and Iwadono Castle (岩殿城)
• Tokyo Cherry Blossom Spots: Nakameguro's Meguro River (目黒川)
• Hiking in Tokyo: Sakura viewing (花見) at Mount Takao
• Cherry Blossoms and Jogging in Tokyo: The Imperial Palace (皇居)
• Saitama: Sakura Season & Washi no Sato World Heritage Paper Making in Chichibu
• Chubu:
• The Tsubame Sakura Matsuri: Cherry Blossom PR & Last Minute Preparations
• Behind the Scene of the Tsubame Sakura Matsuri Festival - The Oiran Dochu
• Izu: Sakura Viewing at the Kawazu Sakura Festival (伊豆河津桜まつり)
• Early March Cherry Blossom Viewing in Shonan - Oide River (小出川)
• Kansai:
• Sakura Season in Kansai - Hanami in the Expo ’70 Commemorative Park!
• Spring in Japan: Sakura Season and Hanami in Kyoto!
• Spring in Kyoto: Ritsumeikan University Orientation Week and Cherry Blossom Hanami!
• Sakura Season: Weekend Trip to Nara
• All blog posts from Japan 

Hotel Chinzanso ★★★★★  → review .

Hotel New Otani Tokyo ★★★★★ .

The Prince Sakura Tower Tokyo ★★★★★ ,

Grand Prince Hotel New Takanawa ★★★★ .

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Last weekend it was time for Japan's first Reebok Spartan Race! The race is known as one of the world’s largest obstacle courses, and this time the event took place in the U.S. Army Sagami General Depot in Sagamihara, approximately 50 minutes by train from Shinjuku.

Sagamihara is a part of Kanagawa prefecture, an area most known for tourist destinations such as Yokohama and Hakone. Along with a group of friends we set out to Sagamihara to find our inner Spartans.

Japan is a country where anything seemingly is possible, and if you like the slightly weird combination of public festivities and giant phalluses then the Kanamara Matsuri (かなまら祭り / Festival of the Steel Phallus) in Kawasaki should probably be on the top of your list of things to see in Japan. This festival is celebrated annually around the first Sunday of April, and people come to the shrine for a variety of purposes such as praying for an easy delivery, protection from sexually transmitted diseases, general prosperity and harmony in marriage. In recent years the festival has particularly become a popular event among foreign visitors, and on this day people from all corners of the world flock to the area to see the unique sight of the pink and black phalluses being carried around the streets in Kawasaki Daishi.